Nationalist Cafe

One of the most interesting meals we have ever had was at the Nationalist Cafe.  We have learned that Ukraine has quite a history of invasion.  Over the centuries, nations have continually fought over and/or taken over parts of the country.  The ultimate insult was when they were forced to become part of the Soviet Union. 

Over the decades of Soviet rule, the eastern part of Ukraine became “sovietized”, much to the chagrin of the people in the western part of Ukraine.  Those in the western part of the country wanted their freedom more then ever, culminating in the “Holocaust of ‘32-33”.  During these two years, the Soviets basically removed all the food from the western part of Ukraine, thus starving to death over 3 million people.  This holocaust we Westerners have never heard of, but one the people of Ukraine still mourn.

Throughout the Soviet rule, the nationalist movement continued. Guerilla warfare was the rule of the day.  Both side were insidious in their desire to destroy the other, neither side was successful until just before the end of Soviet rule when the last of the Nationalist leadership were captured and killed.  But, due to the “orange revolution” and the disintegration of the Iron Curtain in 1991, ultimately the Nationalist Movement reinstated Ukraine to its sovereignty.

Now, in 2010, there are “anti-Russian” restaurants springing up in Ukraine, especially in L-Viv.  One such restaurant was our destination when visiting the city.  It’s entrance was off the main street, with no sign.  You had to know what and where it was to get there.  This restaurant definitely depended on “word of mouth”.

We knocked on the closed door, a small “password” doors opens, and someone inside asks if there are any Russian’s in the party.  When we assured them there weren’t, he opened the door armed with a rifle.  He cocked the rifle and asked one more time, “Are there any Russians in our party?”, when we assured him no, and he was told that some of us were from the United States, we were considered safe and allowed to come in.  But, before we were allowed downstairs to eat, we had to prove our allegiance to Ukraine by each downing a shot of vodka!  Once that was finished we were escorted down 30 feet of stairs to the restaurant.  And it was packed!

Small rooms everywhere all packed with people.  The food was the best and the menu read like a underground newspaper.  Oh, they had two prices, one for Ukrainians, and another ten times higher for Russians!  They had decorated it to look like an underground hideout for the Nationals with memorabilia, maps and rifles everywhere.  Disney couldn’t have done better.  Although their hatred of Russia runs deep, this is all in good fun.  An opportunity for Ukrainians to poke Russia in the eye on last time!